The fashion landscape in the society of the Polish People’s Republic between 1956-1972. The analysis of market and DIY strategies people developed in context of Barbara Hoff’s activity in the Przekrój magazine fashion column.

Abstract

This thesis focuses on fashion’s place in centrally planned economy in Polish People’s Republic in 60. Fashion is presented in the context of political, sociological and cultural changes in order to fully explain its both propagandist and subversive role in communist system. First part is an analysis of the official fashion market managed by the state and the reasons behind its malfunctioning. Second part focuses on DIY (do-it-yourself) strategies and black-market solutions citizens developed in order to acquire (fashionable or any) garments. Both parts were analysed even more closely during the presentation of the figure of Barbara Hoff – a designer and fashion journalist from Przekrój. Hoff’s individual story of a fashion designer shows in a nutshell pathologies of centrally planned economy. On the other hand her experience as a fashion columnist depicts how to deal with scarcities and attain fashionable garments outside the official market. The thesis ends with a reflection on individual Polish fashion style and whether it was achieved in 60’s.